The Armoury Lightbox

ethandesu:

Pantalone

It is safe to say that what requires the most attention to create a beautiful silhouette differs from man to man, body shape to body shape. Great tailoring is a process of accentuating the strengths in a figure, while gentling any of the extremes that could detract. In my time I have dealt with bodies as varied as 12 inch drop swimmers and body builders, to 2 inch drops, men seemingly as wide as they are tall.

I fall in to the second category - a 5 inch difference from my 46” chest to my 41” true waist. Hips equal to my chest and 28” thighs on a not quite 6 foot frame mean that softening the hips and lower body is essential to achieving an elegant silhouette.

For me that has always meant deep pleats, a high waist unmolested by a belt, and a natural taper from the extremity of the seat to the ankle. I have tried any number of tailors and trousers to get there, from deep forward pleats and fishtail trousers from English makers, slim to the hip Milanese flat fronts, and finally true bespoke from Naples. The best fit I have been able to achieve, gladly comes with also the greatest quality of work in any trouser I have seen.

The trousers, of course, are from Ambrosi - a trouser maker from Naples whose business is solely trousers in all their many incarnations. I am lucky to be able to call Salvatore a friend, and the attention he has given to my fits has given me confidence in my appearance that no amount of exercise or dieting has been able to give.

We will be hosting Salvatore for two days this month, taking orders for trousers on the 14th and 15th of May. If you are in Hong Kong, and interested in beautiful trousers, email us at info@thearmoury.com for appointments.