Anonymous asked: it seems that you guys don't wear much cuff-links (although you sell nice ones) - Ethan has 2 button barrel ones or bond cuffs (from Orazio ?) - but he has only one button on them ? (unlike a T&A Bond cuff) - and they are button-downs and not wild cut aways - you seem to be under the Italian influence ... :) Andrey
Actually the sleeves were a little long and he just flipped the end of the cuff over so it looked like a bond cuff.
I’m not really sure why none of us wear cufflinks regularly. We like them a lot but they really only come out for special occasions. Now that you mention it though, I’m itching to wear a french cuffed shirt again …
Piece two from my travels yesterday - a Brisa like hard handed grey Prince of Wales, of unknown age and origin. The selvedge is unmarked, and while the merchant assured me it was Italian, I would be hesitant to take his word. Regardless of where it comes from, it has that old English appeal of sepia like tones in the base colour, rather than clean white, casting a distinctly vintage hue. The hand is rock solid, tight and twisted.
Should this end up in my wardrobe, I can see it as a full fitting forward pleated trouser, with side adjustors and perhaps even a fish tail back - something I am yet to try with Ambrosi.
The jacket I would have Orazio cut doppio petto - double breasted - with the full overlap I favour and full bellied lapels. Perhaps even a ticket pocket on this one, a Naples take on British sobriety. Or perhaps I will ask Orazio to emulate his old maestro - Vincenzo Attolini - and see what he comes up with.
A visit to my local haunt cloth merchant by chance yesterday saw me emerge with metres of opportunity in cloth form - 5 metres of this Blue Wool Silk. A prince of wales with a subtle caramel overcheck, the trousers will most likely be my standard two pleat fare from Ambrosi, while the jacket will follow the lines of my new Orazio Luciano Pattern.
I love blue, in all it’s shades and patterns, but particularly these powdery, slate tinged blues, with a hint of grey in it. I’m sure I don’t need another blue suit, but if no one else claims this cloth in the next few weeks, I will have one anyway.
Tie-Tying #2 - Ethan Newton
Patinova, recreating exquisite Chinese items from the past, has re-cast ceremonial buttons with an orchid motif as a pair of silver cufflinks.
(actually given how many buildings block our direct natural light, it’s more like the golden 10 minutes)
Drake’s winter collection goodies at their store on Clifford St, London - http://drakes-london.tumblr.com/
Great minds..
The other Armoury uniform.
There are blue suits. Blue suits are great - slimming, sharp. Business enough for most, but still sharp enough not to be staid. Then there are blue odd jackets and trousers. Fresco and Hopsack. Flannel and heavy twill. The go to, dress down smart look. A blue oxford and rep tie, cordovan loafers, and it is simplicity. A white poplin, polished black oxfords, and a grey houndstooth tie, it is a Friday casual to shame three pieces and double breasteds everywhere, a formality to it’s informality that is precise and classical.
But in the height of Summer, something a little more continental is sometimes called for, and that’s when we find our tan gun club checks, light grey trousers, light brown shoes, blue bengal stripe shirts. The closeness of colour, but very different temperatures of the light grey and tan make it slightly off balance, then the rich blue of the bengal stripe, Robin’s Egg blue if you have it, a small figural tie - a Marinella or a Capelli. Suede shoes in a tan, or a rust, a light, rich colour.
That is uniform that we can get into everyday.
The Tie-Tying Series
As one might imagine, we at The Armoury are quite enthusiastic about ties. They can be many things: a subtle punctuation, a counterbalance of colour and texture, an item to highlight and draw the eye, a motif that represents you or your organization, etc. Beyond just the material choice of tie, the ways in which people tie their ties and how they like their knots is fascinating in its own way.
I have started a little side project capturing my friends during their minute of knotty focus, recording their sweeping hands as they wind and twist the cloth and saving the micro movements in between, adjusting and refining the knot. What is left is to be enjoyed. The symmetry or asymmetry of the knot, the dimples, the tension, the size and the arc.
If there is a message to this project, it would be:
There is no right or wrong way to tie a tie, only the ways you like to tie it.
(I have purposely left out audio from the shorts because silence is golden. Also, Apple might sue me.)
The Portfolio - http://vimeopro.com/thearmoury/tie-tying
Tie-Tying #1 - Antonio Liverano
This Year’s Armoury Tie … shipping next week, taking pre-orders now at info@thearmoury.com
